In late summer 2023, experienced thru-hikers Kate “Swept Away” Pickett and I embarked on a rigorous expedition across Iceland, an island nation defined by its volatile geology and unpredictable weather. Our objective was two-fold: a remote traverse of the rugged Hornstrandir Peninsula and a demanding north-to-south crossing of the entire country.
The scope of the journey was significant. The Hornstrandir trek covered approximately 120 kilometers (75 miles) of isolated, cliff-lined terrain, while the Iceland Traverse demanded an additional 600 kilometers (373 miles) of trekking across the Central Highlands and beyond. The expedition served not only as a physical test but as a masterclass in equipment strategy, requiring a delicate balance between lightweight efficiency and the "bombproof" durability necessary to survive the North Atlantic’s unforgiving climate.
Chronology of the Expedition: From Peninsula to Plateau
The journey began in the Hornstrandir Peninsula. This region, the northernmost tip of the Westfjords, is characterized by its lack of roads and near-total isolation. We spent our initial days navigating fjords and coastal cliffs where temperatures hovered in the mid-teens Celsius (low 60s F). While the weather remained relatively manageable, we faced several localized storms that served as a precursor to the volatile conditions awaiting us in the interior.
By early September, we transitioned to the Iceland Traverse. This leg of the journey took us deep into the Central Highlands, a vast, volcanic desert that offers little shelter from the elements. It was here that we encountered the most harrowing conditions of the entire trip. For several days—specifically from September 1 through September 4—we were battered by a relentless combination of freezing rain, driving snow, and gale-force winds reaching speeds of nearly 100 km/h (62 mph). Navigating through the Askja Caldera and the desolate stretches between Gæsavatnaskáli and the Nyadilur Hut, our focus shifted from mileage to survival.
Supporting Data: Gear and Logistical Strategy
Despite the severity of the weather, our equipment proved resilient. While I generally prioritize an ultralight philosophy, this expedition required a departure from my usual kit. My base weight, typically hovering in the lower registers of the ultralight category, was perhaps the heaviest it has been this millennium—a tactical decision made to ensure we remained dry and warm during the anticipated storms.
Shelter: The Non-Negotiable Component
The most critical gear decision for any Icelandic trek is the shelter. In the volcanic interior, there are virtually no natural windbreaks. I relied on the Tarptent Stratospire 2 (silpoly), which held up exceptionally well in "storm mode." For those planning a similar crossing, the lesson is clear: do not prioritize weight savings over structural integrity. A shelter that cannot handle high-velocity gusts in an exposed, treeless landscape is a liability.
Sleeping Systems and Footwear
My sleep system consisted of the Katabatic Alsek 22 (22°F/-9°C) quilt paired with a Therm-a-rest NeoAir XLite pad. While I found this combination adequate, it underscored the importance of personal metabolism; Kate, who runs colder, utilized the warmer Katabatic Flex 15. For footwear, I relied on La Sportiva Akashas. Over the past six years, these shoes have proven to be the most reliable option for long-distance, technical terrain, offering the perfect balance of comfort, drainage, and durability. By the end of our 720-kilometer odyssey, the shoes remained structurally sound, with significant tread life left to spare.
Logistics: Fuel and Water
Logistics in Iceland require meticulous planning. Water is abundant in most regions, but the Central Highlands can present long, waterless stretches, necessitating the ability to carry up to 3–4 liters at a time. Fuel management was handled via local resupply in Akureyri, supplemented by a pre-arranged fuel drop at the ranger station at Dreki. Relying on remote caches and mountain hut facilities is essential for any hiker attempting a full-country traverse.
Field Notes: Insights from the Interior
During our traverse, several key observations emerged that are vital for future trekkers.
The Myth of the "Easy" Trail
The interior of Iceland is deceptive. While the terrain is often flat, the lack of topographic relief means there is nowhere to hide from wind or precipitation. We found that the success of our traverse was heavily dependent on our willingness to adjust our daily mileage based on meteorological forecasts. On days where wind speeds reached 100 km/h, progress was agonizingly slow, and our priority shifted to finding any available natural depression or rock formation to provide a semblance of a windbreak.
The Role of Technology and Safety
Safety in the Icelandic backcountry relies on a combination of low-tech navigation and high-tech communication. While I carried a physical Suunto M-3G Global Pro compass, I also utilized digital tools. For anyone attempting this, three apps are non-negotiable:
- SafeTravel.is: For real-time weather alerts and road/trail closures.
- Vedur.is: The gold standard for accurate Icelandic meteorological data.
- 112 Iceland: The official emergency app, which allows you to send your GPS coordinates to the Icelandic Search and Rescue services with a single touch.
Implications for Long-Distance Backpackers
The primary implication of our 2023 expedition is that Iceland is not a place to test experimental gear. The "Icelandic Factor"—the intersection of high humidity, sub-freezing temperatures, and extreme wind—will find the failure point in any system.
The "Bombproof" Philosophy
If you are planning a multi-week traverse of Iceland, your gear should be battle-tested. This doesn’t necessarily mean the heaviest gear available, but it does mean gear with a proven track record of durability. My choice of a 3-layer rain jacket (Montbell Storm Cruiser) over a lighter 2-layer alternative was a deliberate choice to ensure protection against hours of sustained, wind-driven rain.
The Psychological Aspect
Perhaps the most significant takeaway from our traverse was the mental fortitude required for the "white-out" sections of the Highlands. Hiking for three days in a constant state of buffeting wind requires more than just physical fitness; it requires an acceptance of the environment. The beauty of the volcanic landscapes, the rainbows that appear when the clouds break, and the rejuvenating heat of the geothermal springs (like those at Landmannalaugar) are the rewards, but they must be earned through a disciplined approach to risk management.
Conclusion
Trekking across Iceland is a life-changing experience that demands respect for the natural environment. Our 2023 traverse of the Hornstrandir Peninsula and the subsequent cross-country trek highlighted that success is found not in speed, but in preparation. Whether it is selecting a shelter that can withstand 80 km/h gusts or ensuring you have the right insulation for a cold night in the Highlands, every piece of gear serves a purpose in the survival equation.
As we look back on the miles covered, the primary lesson remains constant: in the land of fire and ice, nature is the ultimate authority. By respecting the environment, carrying the right tools, and planning for the worst-case scenario, the hiker can experience one of the most raw and breathtaking wilderness areas on the planet. For those inspired to follow in our footsteps, remember that the goal is not just to finish the trail, but to return with the knowledge and the memories that only such an arduous, beautiful journey can provide.
