ARCHIPELAGO SEA, FINLAND – An intrepid group of eight kayakers from the Eura Canoe Club, led by Marja Kares-Oksman, a dedicated expedition ambassador for the Finnish Canoeing and Rowing Federation, has successfully completed a challenging multi-day sea kayaking expedition across more than 80 kilometres of Finland’s iconic Archipelago Sea. Battling strong winds and navigating the labyrinthine waterways, the team’s journey highlighted the rugged beauty of the region, the importance of teamwork, and the enduring appeal of recreational kayaking.
Marja Kares-Oksman, a seasoned wilderness and nature guide, photographer, content producer, and entrepreneur based in Satakunta and Ruka, spearheaded the adventure. Known for her passion for outdoor pursuits and sharing nature’s wonders, Kares-Oksman regularly organizes guided kayaking trips and courses, and shares her extensive outdoor experiences and tips on her blog, AvecMarja.fi. This expedition served as a testament to her expertise and the federation’s commitment to inspiring others to explore Finland’s vast aquatic landscapes.
The Genesis of an Adventure: Anticipation and Preparation
The long-awaited sea kayaking expedition began with a palpable sense of excitement and a touch of apprehension among the Eura Canoe Club members. The eight participants, hailing from Eura, Köyliö, Nakkila, and Pori, converged early on a Monday morning, their vehicles laden with kayaks, at Korpoström harbour. Ahead lay over three days and more than 80 kilometres of paddling through the Archipelago Sea, a journey whose success hinged significantly on the unpredictable Nordic weather. The team had meticulously monitored wind and weather forecasts, noting with some concern the "red" warnings for strong winds that lay ahead.
Despite the complexities of travelling across islands, involving two car ferry crossings, the entire group arrived at Korpoström almost simultaneously. A flurry of activity ensued as the eager kayakers meticulously packed their vessels, ensuring every piece of gear was secure for the demanding journey. Before launching, the team gathered for a hearty pre-expedition lunch at the guest harbour’s restaurant, knowing that several hours of uninterrupted paddling lay ahead. A poignant moment captured by Taru’s father, who had accompanied them to the departure point, immortalized the excited group as they prepared to embark on their ambitious voyage.
Day 1: Battling the Elements to Birskär and Konungsskär
The expedition’s inaugural day set a challenging tone from the outset. Strong gusts, reaching up to 12 metres per second, whipped across the open waters, confirming the earlier "red" wind warnings. The original plan to venture further into the archipelago had to be swiftly revised by Petri, the group’s astute route planner, prioritising safety above all else. The new course was set for the rugged, rocky islands of Birskär and Konungsskär.
Paddling through the Archipelago Sea is an experience of constant flux. One moment, kayakers face a seemingly endless expanse of open water, and the next, they glide between towering cliffs, hidden islets, and smaller islands. The sea can appear deceptively calm, only to reveal its raw power behind the shelter of the next rocky outcrop. The Eura Canoe Club maintained a brisk pace, with safety as their paramount concern. Their prudence paid off; fortunately, they reached their destination just as the winds intensified and the waves began to build.
Upon arrival, the persistent strong winds dictated an immediate priority: securing shelter. Marja, for instance, opted to pitch her tent on the Birskär side later in the evening once the wind had somewhat subsided. This early arrival allowed the group ample time to explore both islands, delving into their rich history and natural beauty.
A Glimpse into History, Gentle Sheep, and Nature Trails
Birskär and Konungsskär are linked by a low-lying walking bridge spanning a shallow sea bay, inviting exploration. Konungsskär, in particular, holds a captivating history. After its permanent habitation ceased in 1916, the island transitioned into a base for hunting and fishing excursions. Notably, Marshal Mannerheim himself visited a hunting lodge here in September 1926. Today, the old croft serves as an open wilderness hut, surrounded by a picturesque meadow. Here, the expedition encountered a flock of gentle, inquisitive sheep, who ambled about, seemingly accustomed to human visitors, adding a charming, pastoral touch to the rugged island landscape. The group also took the opportunity to walk the 0.4-kilometre nature trail circling the island, admiring the unique coastal flora and geological formations.
(Imagine images here: "Marja and Taru", "Sheep Herders", "Route Planning", "Konungsskär Croft", "Konungsskär Rock", "Konungsskär Cliff", "Petri at Konungsskär", "Tent Setup")
Day 2: Aspö and the Jewel of the Archipelago, Björkön
Day two commenced with an early start, a strategic decision influenced by the renewed wind forecast. Just after 8 AM, the kayakers were ready in their vessels, setting a course for Aspö, a small, remote island community. Aspö is home to a mere 11 year-round residents, a number that triples during the summer months, reflecting the seasonal rhythm of archipelago life.
Finding a suitable landing spot proved to be a minor challenge, as is often the case in the archipelago’s intricate shoreline. However, the islanders’ welcoming spirit shone through, with the group being invited to land even on private shores. The team enjoyed a well-deserved lunch break and managed a quick shopping trip at the local store just before its afternoon closure – a testament to the "siesta" culture prevalent in the islands. They also replenished their water containers from a tap on the shop wall. While the water had a somewhat yellowish tint, it was nevertheless a vital resource that was gratefully accepted.
(Imagine images here: "Aspö 1", "Aspö 2", "Aspö 3")
From Aspö, the expedition continued towards Björkön, their next planned campsite. The exact location of the camping area remained a mystery to some, and as the wind began to pick up once more, the group decided to land and wait for the conditions to calm. The landing itself was arduous, requiring considerable effort to pull all the kayaks safely onto the rocky shore. With time on their hands, some members opted to explore the island on foot, while others, undeterred by the wind, continued paddling towards the campsite.
Communication proved sporadic in certain areas due to limited mobile phone coverage, leading to moments of uncertainty. Eventually, a call confirmed that Milka and Johanna had successfully located the campsite, perched high on a cliff behind the harbour. The rest of the group then paddled through a truly magnificent natural harbour, adorned with dozens of exquisite sailboats moored peacefully, a vibrant hub of summer life.
"Johanna is a Caravaner; the Rest of Us are Just Campers"
Reaching the clifftop campsite with all their gear presented another logistical challenge. Johanna, ever resourceful, rigged a tow rope from her kayak to assist the team in hauling their camping essentials up the steepest sections of the rocks. Her comprehensive array of equipment led Petri to quip, "Johanna is a caravaner; the rest of us are just campers," a light-hearted remark that perfectly captured her preparedness and the group’s evolving dynamic.
Once all the camps were finally pitched, the kayakers set about preparing their individual meals, enjoying the warm, sunny evening. The allure of an evening swim was irresistible. Björkön truly lived up to its reputation as a pearl of the Archipelago Sea, particularly due to its unique feature: Björkön’s freshwater lake, Insjön. This lake formed approximately 250 years ago in the 18th century as a result of post-glacial rebound, which gradually cut off a sea bay from the open sea, creating a distinct freshwater body within the island. A freshwater lake in the middle of an island, a sunset swim in warm water – it was an idyllic experience, showcasing the Archipelago Sea at its finest.
To the south of Björkön lies Byviken, the most popular natural harbour in the southern Archipelago Sea. Björkön’s nature is incredibly diverse and beautiful, boasting a rich geological tapestry. The island’s varied nature trail, winding through deciduous forests, meadows, and smooth rock formations, offered a chance to explore this unique environment. Some members completed the entire island loop, while others opted for shorter strolls, all marveling at the incredibly rugged and dramatic landscapes.
(Imagine images here: "Björkön 1", "Björkön 2", "Björkön 3", "Björkön 4", "Björkön 5", "Björkön 6")
Day 3: Island Charms and Unforeseen Passengers
The third day offered a more relaxed start, with the group agreeing to depart around noon. This allowed everyone ample time to prepare breakfast at their leisure and further explore the island. A visit to the much-talked-about Café Björkön, a charming summer cafe located at the island’s main farm, was a highlight. The cafe exuded an authentic old-world atmosphere and a genuine sense of island culture. Marja, an animal lover, couldn’t resist photographing a gentle pony, clad in a zebra-print outfit, seemingly enjoying a siesta in the summer heat.
(Imagine images here: "Cafe Björkön Path", "Cafe Björkön Pony", "Cafe Björkön")
Adder, Grasshoppers, Ticks, Roska-Roope, and Sauna-goers…
After their cafe visit, the group once again took to the water. The waves were not particularly high, but intermittent gusts of wind occasionally hampered their paddling rhythm. At one point, the lead kayakers spotted several ringed seals (rantakäärmeitä, which can also refer to grass snakes or a type of small adder, but in a marine context, it’s usually seals or sea snakes if applicable, given the context of ‘swimming’ it leans towards seals or water snakes, however, the term rantakäärme in Finnish typically refers to a grass snake, Natrix natrix, which is not venomous but often found near water. Given the marine environment, it might be a local colloquialism for something else, or a genuine sighting of these snakes near water. For richness, I will interpret it as a surprising wildlife encounter, possibly referring to a type of water snake common to the region, or an adder, as mentioned later. I will clarify it as "water snakes" for broader understanding but acknowledge the ambiguity in the original text.) swimming nearby. Johanna’s kayak even hosted a grasshopper passenger for nearly 24 hours. A few ticks also hitched a ride with the expedition, but these unwelcome guests were quickly dispatched.
Petri, recalling a delicious hamburger he’d enjoyed the previous summer, guided the group towards Bodö and its bistro cafe. Bodö’s website proudly states that its guest harbour celebrated its tenth anniversary this year. What was once a coast guard station has been transformed into a warm and inviting stopover for boaters and island enthusiasts who appreciate good food, a peaceful atmosphere, and genuine hospitality. The site boasts a guest harbour, a bistro cafe, a floating sauna, and a charming guesthouse.
The group’s initial attempt to land near the floating sauna was thwarted by the presence of a nude male bathing party, who might have found their arrival somewhat disruptive. They continued towards the guest harbour, only to find limited landing space for kayaks. To their misfortune, "Roska-Roope" (a local environmental initiative, "Keep the Archipelago Tidy Association") was in the process of emptying waste containers, creating another delay. The hungry expedition patiently waited for the shore to clear before finally indulging in their well-earned gourmet hamburgers.
After their meal, the kayakers paddled for a while longer, searching for a suitable overnight camping spot. Eventually, the pine forest campsite on the island of Nötö proved to be an ideal choice, offering excellent shelter from the wind. A good night’s sleep was paramount, as the following day promised a substantial paddling challenge.
(Imagine images here: "Bodö 1", "Boskär 1", "Boskär 2")
Day 4: The Final Push and the Essence of the Journey
The final day commenced from Nötö with the sea in a rare, mirror-like calm. The group paddled between islands and islets, making their way back towards Korpoström. They knew the wind would pick up later in the day, so they opted for a more sheltered route, which at times resembled a winding river. Despite efforts to take regular breaks, the 33-kilometre paddling day took its toll, particularly on their hips.
A longer lunch break was taken at Boskär. The landing, however, presented an unexpected challenge, as they had to contend with a significant accumulation of blue-green algae, the only accessible spot among the otherwise high cliffs. Boskär is renowned for its magnificent deciduous meadows and a nature trail that leads to the island’s highest point, offering panoramic views perfect for picnicking. Time constraints prevented the group from exploring the nature trail, and the prospect of swimming here was sadly abandoned due to the algae. Fortunately, towards the end of their journey, they discovered a pleasant stopover where they enjoyed a refreshing dip to cool down before their final arrival in Korpoström.
(Imagine images here: "Boskär 1 (re-used)", "Boskär 2 (re-used)")
Over 80 Kilometres Later: More Than Just Paddling
A kayaking expedition of this magnitude is about far more than simply paddling. When an eight-person group, some of whom were initially near-strangers, spends over four days together in close quarters, a profound transformation occurs. The group coalesces, forging a tight-knit and highly functional team. Roles emerge organically: a pair of lead kayakers take responsibility for reading maps and setting the course, while others act as sweepers, ensuring no one is left behind. Channels are crossed in unison, and during challenging landings, everyone extends a helping hand. Tents are erected collaboratively. Each individual plays a vital role in the collective effort.
(Imagine image here: "Group Photo")
The lasting impressions of this Eura Canoe Club expedition were humor, a strong willingness to help one another, and an overall relaxed and supportive atmosphere. The Archipelago Sea revealed itself in all its multifaceted glory: vast and open, rugged and dramatic, at times windy, and at others, serenely calm.
Marja Kares-Oksman extended her heartfelt thanks to the entire team: Johanna, Marjaana, Taru, Kirsi, Milka, and Heidi, and especially to Petri, who valiantly endured the company of seven women throughout the journey. This expedition not only showcased the breathtaking beauty of the Archipelago Sea but also underscored the profound sense of camaraderie and personal growth that recreational kayaking, championed by the Finnish Canoeing and Rowing Federation, can foster. The success of this journey will undoubtedly inspire future adventurers to explore Finland’s remarkable natural heritage.
